CT to NYC through NJ

Ship’s Log, September 27, 2009

From Saturday the 19th in CT through to Sunday the 27th in Cape May, NJ

Saturday the 19th we had a quiet evening well inside of Cold Spring Harbor and diner was on the boat. Sunday’s departure was determined by the tide. We had a glorious ride up the Long Island Sound and Down the East River. We got the tide correctly and flew down the river at 12 knots. Our usuall speed is about 8, so that is a 50% increase in speed. The boys found the best spot in the house on the bow and then we moved to the flybridge to view Lady Liberty in NY Harbor. Then it was up the Hudson River to anchor at the 79th Street Boat Basin. There were no moorings available and we are trying very hard to not pay the $$$$ for a slip. Since there were no moorings they said we could anchor and use their dingy dock and facilities for a smaller fee than mooring. Now anchoring in the Hudson is a mixed blessing. We had the most incredible views, the least expensive “hotel room” in the city, easy access to shore and a roaring current that made boat life a challenge. A Chinese Fire Drill ensued that night as our anchor did not re-bed with the tide change and we made a slow drift south. Fortunately something woke Jon up and we did a scramble to get back into place before becoming too well acquainted with the boat behind us that had been 300 yards away and was now about 5 yards away. The current and passing boats also make for quite a rock and roll situation and the speed of the water that night was such that it caused our anchor rode (now out @ 230 feet) to vibrate causing a pitch to emanate like a stringed instrument. In fact I was aware that the current was ebbing when the pitch subsided. Then I was able to get back to sleep.

Jon took us on quite the tour of the town over the next few days. Sunday evening we dined on the patio of an outdoor restaurant just across from Lincoln Center. Monday we started up at the campus of Columbia University where Jon had just taken several courses and worked our way down to Washington Square in the Village. We ended up dining in a place off Times Square. After dinner we had to pass back through Times Square again to get back to the subway. TS is now a pedestrian area and there we discovered that it was all set up with row upon row of chairs for a show on one of the giant screens above the square. On impulse we went in and sat down. It turned out to be opening night at the Met – Tosca. We figured out that we were between Acts 1 and 2 (of 3) and Act 2 started shortly. It was amazing. The huge screens, the unbelievable sound system drowning out the city sounds, the evening with perfect temperature and the whole ambiance was quite an experiene. The entire crowd exploded with Tosca after her wonderful aria. She was spectacular. It was just an amazing event with these people sitting out in Times Square enjoying life. Not waiting for the end we grabbed a cab to go back to the boat. That morning we had been able to move to a mooring so the next two nights were much less taxing. Tuesday we were feeling a bit worn out by our enthusiasm of the previous two days, but we still did much walking around and saw more, different areas of the city. It is an amazingly large place and also amazingly more friendly than the “old days”.

Wednesday we parted company with Jon and headed south under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge headed to Sandy Hook, NJ. There we met up with my brother James and his wife Gina and after giving them a boat tour had dinner ashore. Thursday it was back up and around the hook to Barnegat Bay Inlet. The tide had just changed against us but the wind was calm and with the modifications that have been made to the jetties it was an easy entrance. That green can all the way on the right is still disconcerting, though. Carefully picking our way among the reds and greens we got to the correct area for overnight anchoring. It was very hot when we arrived and Mark headed ashore to find bait. His catch was a teensy blowfish – seems they are not poisonous around here. Friday the wind was up considerably so going outside was not an option. We decided to go for the inside route. Looking at the chart we picked a place at Little Egg Harbor Inlet that looked like a decent place to anchor. We worked slowly and figured out the reds and greens – the buoy system - and then we were on the NJ ICW. It was interesting being on the inside. For the most part it became quite clear as to where one was supposed to be and it was extremely clear that if you left the channel it was basically 1 foot deep. However it also became clear that our choice of anchorage would be less than good. All that stuff that looked like land on the chart turned out to be fields of grass in the middle of the bay with absolutely no protection from the wind, which was why we were on the onside in the first place. Not only that, but for a short passage through the area of Little Egg Harbor Inlet we had the pants scared off us as we moved literally from green to green (no reds around) and the sounder was showing 2 feet. Some fast chart work showed that Atlantic City was only about 15 miles or two hours further. Even still that anchorage situation was iffy. We really were not interested in the Trump Marina. I kept plugging away at the internet and finally came up with some articles written by Gene and Katie Hamilton who write for several of the boating magazines talking about an anchorage called Rum Cove (not on the charts, but is noted as Rum Point) and is just across the inlet from Atlantic City. The entrance looks like you could skip over it from one side to the other. We could see other boats inside, so we turned in. Over the bar we went and I headed up to prep the anchor. Mark swung around the last area marked as shallow but alas it was not wide enough. I suddenly realized we were not moving. Bummer. 200 feet to go after a long day and cocktail time and we were in the mud. Thank goodness our Sea Tow is paid up. I called them and they were there in about 15 minutes. The very nice man tied to our port stern cleat, “prop washed” and pulled for about 15 minutes until with his twin 200’s blew away the mud under us and he was able to pull us free. Fortunately the only harm done was to our egos – especially since we had made it the whole way from Barnegat without touching. Well the old saying is…..

Saturday we took the dingy across the inlet to go check out Atlantic City. As there was no dingy dock we improvised and just hoped that it would be there when we got back (it was). Atlantic City remains a study of contrasts. This was not the best section of town. After several blocks we got up to Boardwalk and checked out the scene. We did wander into the Taj Mahal Casino just to see it – even had lunch there. What a completely different world and mentality. I had intended to drop a roll of quarters, but I couldn’t figure out how to do it. No one armed bandits – all push buttons.

The weather was still high winds and now the rains were coming. It poured all night but Mark finally convinced me to head out and do the next stretch to Cape May again on the inside. We still bumped bottom on that spot even though we went even wider. This next section of the NJ ICW included many more bridges and we figured out that the bridge tenders were not returning our calls because there is an issue with the radio. Always something – oh, yes and a piece broke off the windlass (the unit that pulls up the anchor and 75 feet of chain) this morning. The section today has also terrified us several times with the depth or lack of it (2 feet?!?). The marshes however are stunning. The grasses go for miles and it has been fun to watch all the bird life. Wherever there is actual land the homes are cheek to jowl, every single one with boat docks. A few more closer-than-comfort calls with the bottom and we finally pulled into “Sunset Lake” in Wildwood, just north of Cape May – one of the few areas that has more than 6 feet of water and is out of the mainstream. However, all is well. The anchor is placed there is a light breeze and the sun is coming back out.

Boston through to Western Long Island Sound

Ship’s Log, September 12, 2009, Boston, MA through to Long Island Sound, CT / NY

9/12 – 9/19 – Saturday - Our new friends headed out on Saturday the 12th and called back to say that they were turning back – still big seas - but headed to one of the islands to anchor up and encouraged us to stay put yet another day. Our project for the day was that we made an attempt to get the internet, the computer and TV monitor speaking to each other. A Radio Shack and Staples up the street were helpful but it is still a work in progress. The hikes to the stores in the rain were our walks and we did do some chilling out. Sunday finally dawned quietly with better weather and after a last run to Mike's for pastries we headed out late morning in order to catch the correct tide at the Cape Cod Canal. There was a period where we saw more wildlife – a shearwater, porpoise, tuna and an ocean sunfish. It had been a lovely day but a quick downpour and a lovely rainbow greeted our entrance to Buzzards Bay. We anchored up in Onset (just at the west end of the canal) for the night. Monday, having listened to the long range forecast, we reluctantly changed our plans, bypassing Nantucket and headed for Block Island. The traveling conditions were perfect and we caught the tide and wind just right and are flying along at 8.5 knots (never thought I’d be saying that). The ride was pleasant and we dropped a hook mid-afternoon in Great Salt Pond on Block Island. We dingied around the Pond and had a beer at “The Oar” a waterfront pub that has a huge collection of decorated oars donated by many boaters over the years. Tuesday was a perfect day to take the Moped tour of the island. It is a lovely collection of homes and fields with extensive rock walls, one town as such, the ferry terminal on the east side, the pond for boaters on the west and lighthouses on both the north and south ends. Having covered the whole island by 2:30 – we decided to take advantage of the good weather and cross back over to Stoning ton, CT to check in on some boat issues. The anchorage where we could drop a hook was of course, the more exposed area behind the breakwater so when the weather did change it was rolly. Oh, well. Wednesday morning Mark got us to the dock and the guys determined that our autopilot was fine and that the windlass (the device that pulls up the anchor chain and anchor) that decided to misbehave badly as we pulled up the anchor just needed tightening. Afterwards, back to the anchorage. After a squall things died down so we headed out to put a few miles on and hopefully get to a nicer anchorage. Stonington had been a disappointment as far as a town goes. On our way we connected with Jonathan and after several calls to the UK (where he was) decided to connect in Milford on Friday when he gets back. In the meantime we were headed to Niantic Bay and up the river. As we approached our end point in the bay we realized that there were two bridges to get through. We could not raise a soul on any radio channel; we were getting stuck in the mud in the teensy approach channel and about to leave when miraculously the bascule bridge opened. We decided to turn around and head back in. The 2nd bridge was not a problem – high enough. We finally decided that the bridge must remain in the up position except when a train approaches and triggers it to go down. It was a very shallow bay and necessary to obey the channel markers. There was a big marina full of Grady Whites at the beginning, lots of moored boats and lots of homes on the shoreline. As we got farther upriver things thinned out and we found a lovely spot to drop a hook. Mark finished repairing the dingy and we had a very pleasant night. Thursday dawned as a brisk fall day. Somehow that bridge made us wait again – no trains in site so I got to practice some close quarter maneuvering under the high bridge. We headed out thinking that we had the wind and the tide in our favor, but we missed some piece of information somewhere and ploughed all the way to Milford “upstream”, thankful that it was light wind. Milford’s outer harbor was very calm and protected with the existing wind angle so we dropped a hook, watched the local evening sailboat race from the flybridge and retired. Friday we pulled into the Milford Landing Marina; a place we had stayed at on or last trip. Boat business was the order of the day. We had made an appointment with a tec guy who ultimately was unable to help us except to suggest that we purchase a Verizon Wireless Broadband card for the computer. Of course it is never that easy. Two trips to the mall and we still couldn’t get the thing working. We threw in the towel, had dinner and awaited Jon’s arrival via Amtrak. At @ 9pm we wandered up to the train (we had no idea of his actual arrival time – his cell phone was dead) and his train pulled in 10 or so minutes later. We spent some time reacquainting and then we all crashed. Saturday was a gorgeous fall day. We poked about the boat but with the intent of getting going. Jon got our Broadband going on my computer (after a few unsuccessful attempts himself) so at least we are up and running again! I got a pulled pork cooking on the Crockpot and Mark pointed the bow to Cold Spring Harbor on Long Island. All is well and we got a peek of the NY skyline on the horizon.

Hanging out in Boston

Ship’s Log, September 11, 2009, Boston, MA

Our trip from Portsmouth was smooth, so much so that we pushed on to Boston. The wind was to come up and wherever we put in was going to be our home for the next several days. Coming in to Boston Harbor was interesting – big channel, big boats, big city. We poked around and finally decided to check out the only moorings we could see. The folks at Waterboat Marina have been very nice. They insisted that we come in to a slip as the winds were to be strong. We were a "small" boat, they had space and did not charge us more. How great is that? Oh – just 5 blocks to all the wonderful food in the North End. We walked and explored, went to the Aquarium, and IMAX presentation of “Star Trek” (great fun both) and grazed our way right through town. We met up with some local friends and made new boat friends also stuck here. Hopefully, weather permitting we will press on tomorrow. Many places to go and miles to cover.

D DAY!

Ship’s Log – Monday, September 7, Labor Day,
Portsmouth Harbor, NH

Saturday the 5th was a crazy day of catching up on the seemingly endless list of To-Do items. Mark’s list was on / at the boat and mine was house and garden. It continued into Sunday. First item was to move the boat to the dock for easier loading – for what had not yet gone one. Every trip to the boat in the past two weeks included at least two canvass bags of stuff to go. After that load it was back to the house to pick out a pile of cloths that we actually fit into the allotted spaces on the boat. Somehow I also managed to get the refrigerator at the house emptied, shut down and loaded onto the boat. A great opportunity to clean out some of those mystery items that have been there for far too long. We gave ourselves a 4pm deadline for me to shut down the house and Mark to wrap up his projects, making some sense of the piles on the boat so that we could have some guests on to celebrate with us. Coincidentally it was also Mark’s birthday. One guest wished to hear the engine so Mark very happily turned it on only to have it not cooperate. When we had fueled on the 4th, we had shut off the fuel valves and never turned them on. Thank heavens it waited until we were tied up at the dock to run dry. Fortunately our guest was able to assist Mark in bleeding the injectors and she cranked right over. The last item then was to ferry the car back to the house, shut off the water and have a friend take me back. Of course the water valves haven’t been turned in 10 years and took some WD40 and a wrench and then I couldn’t remember if I had locked the front door. No overload here!

Monday the 7th dawned lovely but quite chilly. We pulled off the dock at @ 6:30 am, performed the Monhegan Farewell on our way past Portland Head Light and pointed her nose towards Portsmouth. I grabbed a few more hours of shut-eye as the swells were not agreeing with me. Mark poked around finding homes for belongings and putting things away. We pulled into Portsmouth Harbor just after noon, riding the end of the tide up the river. When we turned around to come back we dropped from a high of 9 knots back to 4. Quite a current here. We are currently anchored up just outside the Pepperrell Cove Yacht Club. Scored – a place to anchor. Then we are to meet Jean Alvord – friend and colleague from the PSO for dinner as she and her husband live nearby. Not bad for first day out. Hard to believe we are doing it. It does feel a little bit like dropping down the Rabbit Hole!